I knew that Miami, for me, was going to be Marmite. I was either going to love it, or hate it. This is our second day here and I think unfortunately, for Miami, the latter statement maybe the correct one. However ‘hate’ is a strong word so perhaps rather than ‘hating Miami’ I just simply can’t relate to it. I’m finding it hard to even give the place my opinion I am that distanced from its rhythms. Miami is another planet. Inhabited by many people I would never care to see again. In fact if someone paid me even just one cent never to come back here I’d take the deal. Miami and Amy are never going to bond!
You might think I’m being a little harsh considering I’ve only been here two days but lets be honest, first impressions are deal breakers (whether we allow ourselves to believe that or not) and Miami’s, for me, have been mainly obscene! Now this is only my opinion, others may love this place, and I wouldn’t blame them, it certainly has a weird intrigue and the weather is pretty spectacular! But to try and best describe South Beach, Miami I will rely on the typical stereotypes often related to this part if the city.
Yes the women here are pretty well in shape, most have large boobs (that Ollie reckons are real) and a lot of them seem to be loaded! The men do work out on gyms set out just behind the beach, they are all extremely tanned and they do have bodies you see on posters! The nightlife here is mental, places stay open ‘til 5 A.M and only open from Midnight (Mum and Dad try SPing here!!). There are neon clothed people all about and the fashion, judging by window displays is as garish as the cities general outlook. I can safely use the words vain, judgmental, shallow, fickle, superficial to describe some of the people here. But it's mainly the people visiting who seem to be this way. Well, I suppose some residents are too. But the ones working just want your money any way they can get it. They are relying on your need to 'have a good time' and to make outlandish payments for flashy goods. Something is feeding the obscene but I can't decide if it's the city feeding the tourists or if the tourists feed the city. Perhaps it's both. Either way I dislike the vibe. This is party central, flash the cash heaven and anyone who comes here is desperate to play the part.
I think coming here as a traveller may be worse than if I had planned a holiday. It certainly doesn’t help things when you turn up after sleeping on a bus, smelling a bit, carrying a newly formed paunch from all the cheap food you’ve been eating, wearing clothes that are either damp or dirty and with a tan that looks more like you’ve been drawn on with a brown felt tip in odd places. Looking as we did we were just asking for stares. Looking good is probably a commandment here!
Our hostel is in a pretty awesome location for being in the centre of the ‘action’. Situated on the beach front in the very popular and seemingly affluent ‘Art Deco’ district, it plunges you straight into Miami life. The district itself I have to admit does boast some fantastic architecture. All the buildings look they’ve come straight from the 1950’s and are all painted super colours! One of our particular favourites is a diner called ‘Johnny Rockets’ which has classic booth style seats right out onto the pavement and all the tables come complete with authentic looking napkin and straw holders. Oh and not forgetting the most amazing Milkshakes I’ve ever tasted! I had never had a ‘real’ milkshake up until now. This one was so thick that I could barely suck it up the straw and it was the most filling drink ever! One of the highlights for me!! All the staff stand in the pavement outside of the bars and restaurants trying to tempt you in. It is impossible to walk past without being jumped on unless you cross to the other side of the street! It’s always the way in a tourist destination but that is precisely why I avoid touristy places! I freak out, shrivel up and dissolve into a tiny ball trailing behind Ollie, holding his hand as tight as I can.
We wanted to at least have a drink in a bar to say that we had so last night we set out for the evening. I’d even said I would consider a ‘club’ because you know...when in Miami! But to say we were out priced is an understatement! Everything here is crazily over priced and tips are added on whether you like it or not AND they expect you to add even more on your own! The cocktails do look huge but at almost $30 a time so they should be! Bars do 2for1 but you’re still looking at least $14 for one drink. We would never pay that back home so we certainly wouldn’t here! We found that to get into a club was $20 (oh and you needed shoes which we don't have!) and once inside even a single sprit and mixer was $15. Ridiculous is the only word I can find to describe this ‘night scene’. Who pays that much?! And why?! A night out could cost well over $100 and what would you have to show for it...a sore head? O.K so maybe I’m being a grinch and if I was here for that kind of holiday (trust me I never will be) I might view the situation differently. But on a traveling budget there is just no way. Another thing I wasn't comfortable with was the fact that young families were eating dinner just opposite girls dancing practically naked on bar tops. There is a time and place for both of these things but I'm just not sure its together! Content with a walk through the mayhem Ollie and I decided to go home. Sober but with our wallets intact!
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This morning after over sleeping (must have been catch up from our camping torment) we got up and headed straight to the beach. The only place I like here! The water is the perfect temperature and the most gorgeous greeny blue, so that instantly the wretchedness of the city is washed away. We saw huge shoals of fish swimming in the waves, some even jumping out of the water; it was great! The morning sun was lovely to lay in but by midday it was really strong. I loved it but for Ollie he was bored and needed to move on! We took a walk down to the Marina which is on the tip of South Beach and it was actually a pleasant experience! On the way back we walked along the beach and for a moment I was able to forget the giant hotel complexes and just focus on what is left of the natural beauty! Although we have a feeling even the beach has had the ‘hand of man’ touch!
Miami isn’t the most unpleasant place but it certainly isn’t for the gentler personality. Certainly give the madness a chance for a day, but more than that and you might end up trying to chase your soul as it books the next flight out of there!
21/10/11
I delayed comment, not wishing to hog your blog ... but - one of your best so far. Evocative, opinionated and, ultimately, satisfying for you both. As you said previously, adverse conditions and feelings make for better writing! C8-)
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