Our alarm went off at 6 A.M and then the next went off...and the next. I had set three different ones the night before to make absolutely sure we woke up in time to catch The Interislander. We got dressed and drove 500m up the road to the ferry terminal, arriving not just early but very early for our check in! We waited at the front of the line for over an hour as other cars, vans and lorries pulled up around us. Eventually the time came for us to load on to the boat and we found ourselves parked right in the bowes of the ship along next to the massive trucks. We were the only camper van on board!
We were traveling on the biggest of the three ferries and it had everything that the ones to France have on them. Of course the first thing we did was find where the cooked breakfasts were being served because Ollie was desperate for one and some meat! As he placed his order the guy serving us couldn’t help but smile as Ollie’s plate disappeared under a mass of food. Next we explored the rest of the boat before heading out on to the top deck to watch us leave Wellington behind. For most of the Cook Straight crossing we sat and watched the sea out of the window but as we neared the South Island we went outside once more in expectation of the stunning views we had heard about.
Mountains on our right and left, a glassy sea beneath (that felt more like a river) and the sun beating down on us, it was the perfect day to be taking the ferry. I have never seen anything quite like what we experienced on the second half of our ferry trip when we had entered the fiords. The landscape was almost unbelievable and impossible not to stare in wonder at. Everything was so natural and the only evidence of humans was the occasional fishing boat that might pass or a single house surrounded by a forest. Beautiful doesn’t come close to describing it. The crossing from North to South Island definitely has to be one of the most beautiful ferry trips in the world!
Arriving in Picton, a tiny place considering it is the ferry port, we disembarked and after a brief look at our map, chose Nelson as our town to head towards. As we wove in and out of mountains, looked up at snow caps, down at the little bays and ocean below and tried to take in the dense forests, what we saw literally took our breath away. Now I’ve heard people use that expression before but I didn’t know it was actually possible. We had only just begun to experience the South Island and yet already I had seen a landscape I could have only ever imagined. The dramatic nature of the mountainous infinity surrounding us, the amount of untouched forest and bush, the endless amounts of coves, inlets and bays, they were enough to bring tears to my eyes. It was almost impossible to take the beauty in. It made me shiver. That there are actually places left on our plundered and exploited planet that still look as they might have done thousands of years before. It was then we realised we were to be in a complete state of awe for the remainder of our time here.
We reached Nelson in the early afternoon and pulled over for some lunch. We had decided to spend most of our time on the island walking, exploring and taking in the more natural side of New Zealand. So although Nelson seemed a nice enough place, we didn’t really want to spend too much time in the town. There are some fantastic wineries in the Marlborough region but knowing all to well that if we visited, we’d end up buying, and trying our best to save money we had to restrain ourselves and stay away. Instead we drove up towards the Abel Tasman National Park as research had told us it was the smallest yet most popular park in New Zealand. We planned to walk in the park the following day so that evening we headed even further north and stopped just outside a town called Takaka (Or Shakaka as Ollie named it after Ace Venturer) because nearby there was a large natural spring we wanted to see.
The sun woke me. Blasting through the curtains, I was sure it could burn a hole in them if it wanted to. It was another glorious day. Even warm enough for shorts! After saying good morning to a herd of Alpacas (very popular over here!) we set off the Te Waikoropupu Springs, or the Pupu springs as they are locally known. The spring holds the clearest water in the world and although not the largest it is pretty big. The only other water as clear is under an ice flow in Antarctica somewhere! Maori tribes hold the waters as sacred and used to hold birthing ceremonies and other special occasions at the springs. The waters are heavily preserved and no one is allowed to go in the water.
We walked down the bush track and as we approached the waters edge we could immediately see why this spring is so special. The water was so clear we could see to the bottom of a 2.7m base with absolute ease. Because the clarity gives a depth illusion, the spring actually looks far more shallow than it actually is. Every pebble, rock, grain of sand or patch of algae was brought to the surface as if we were looking at it through a pain of glass. In the centre of the pool was the spring and we spotted it because it was at the centre of the ripples. That spring pushes out 14,000L of water a second from beneath rocks. Incredible! The ducks swimming about on the surface were very lucky ducks indeed!
Abel Tasman Park is situated on the same Northern coast line as Nelson and looks out onto the Tasman bay. The boundaries of the park start right on the coast line and end somewhere high up in the mountains to the west. We had driven over one of the mountains on the way to Takaka and although the views were awesome I spent most of the time gripping my seat as the our van creaked and groaned its way up steep hills and around 90 degree turns. Yucky! Anyway, we wanted to take a coastal path along the edge of the park as it was meant to be one of the best trails. At the start of the track there was the chance to walk over a lovely sandy beach so obviously we chose that. We spent a good while inspecting drift wood (more Oliver than me), kicking dead crabs (again only Ollie), and ooooing and arring at giant muscle shells (oh yep again just Ollie).
By the time we looked up we had neared the end of the beach and it was time to find a way back onto the main path. After my failed attempt to get us back on the trail, Ollie took charge and noticed some steps just across the river that ran onto the beach. The water was covered in rocks and boulders and we would have to find a way through. At this point Ollie took the lead as it is an unspoken given between us that I am not always the steadiest person on my feet and so should always stay close to Ollie so he can help me out. So following gingerly I jumped, slipped and tiptoed my way behind Ollie, always at clingable reach to him. We were just starting to cross the most difficult section of the river, me holding Ollie’s arm, when all of a sudden there was a ‘arghhh’ and before I knew it Ollie was flaying about in front of me as I stood calf deep in the river. Using me to right himself he turned around to see me looking helplessly back. ‘Amy your shoes!’ was his response as he tugged me back onto a rock. I couldn’t stop laughing. And although Ollie will never admit it was his fault I ended up with soaking wet shoes, it was hilarious to me how he had used me to make sure he didn’t fall in without realising his ‘slip’ had pushed me in already!
Once on the other side we managed to regain the path and found a bench so I could sit down for a moment and sort myself out. I rang my socks out as best I could and tipped out the remaining water from my shoes. As it was still warm and I was keen to carry on walking I bravely put my sodden shoes back on and we set off again. The walk took us in and out of the wonderful bush and gave us fantastic views of the coast below. There were lots of little islands dotted around and boats were moored up at them. We wished we had our boat to go exploring too! The sandy beaches were golden in the afternoon sun and the sea was flat calm. We walked for over an hour before taking a steep track down to one of the beaches. It was the perfect place to have a rest, take in all that was around us and to enjoy the last of the days sun.
It was at this point I made my mistake. I took off my shoes, paddled in the water and then decided I would walk the rest of the beach barefoot back to the main path to give my shoes chance to dry out a bit. What I hadn’t realised was that the sand now out of the sun was absolutely freezing and before I knew it I felt like I owned ice blocks instead of feet. I looked down and declared to no one in particular that my feet had gone purple. By this time Oliver had lost patience with me (even though it was his fault in the first place I got wet shoes) and so he gave me his socks (ahhhh and pooy what’s that smell?!) forced my wet shoes back on me and marched us back along the trail to the van. So all in all it was a tremendously lovely walk!! No really, it was.
19/7/12
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